chogolisa peak

Chogolisa Peak Expedition

Summit 7,668m via the Southwest Ridge after traversing the Baltoro Glacier

Duration

43 Days

Max Altitude

7,665m (summit)

Difficulty

Technical/ Advanced

Best Season

June - September

Chogolisa Peak Expedition Highlights

  • Summit Chogolisa Peak (7,665 m) via the technical Southwest Ridge
  • Trek the 62 km Baltoro Glacier, navigating ice, moraine, and rock channels
  • Experience Concordia's 360-degree panorama of K2 (8,611 m) and Broad Peak (8,051 m)
  • Establish Base Camp (~5,200 m) on the moraine of the Kaberi Glacier
  • Navigate the remote Hushe Valley on the expedition's final traverse
  • Ascend through the Karakoram range over eight progressive approach days
  • Allocate 24 days for acclimatization rotations and summit attempts from Base Camp
  • Traverse from the Braldu Valley to the Hushe Valley without backtracking
  • Camp beneath the granite walls of Masherbrum (7,821 m) and the Trango Towers (6,286 m)
  • Choose Logistic Service for independent alpine climbing, or Full Expedition for guided support with High Altitude Porters and fixed-line management
  • Source an experienced Nepali Sherpa or Pakistani HAP through 14 Adventure's own network, built on founder Khalil's guiding experience since 1993

Expedition Overview

The Chogolisa Peak Expedition centers on a 7,665-meter Karakoram summit reached by one of the world's most storied approaches. The journey threads the length of the Baltoro Glacier from Askole (3,050 m) to Concordia at 4,691 m — the glacier junction where K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrums converge — before turning toward the Kaberi Glacier and a high Base Camp at roughly 5,200 m beneath Chogolisa's broad, trapezoidal face. The expedition is as much a traverse of the Karakoram's geography as it is a climb of a major 7,000-meter peak. The route follows the classic Baltoro corridor across lateral moraines, ice highways, and shifting glacial terrain to Concordia, then branches toward Chogolisa Base Camp. Above Base Camp, the ascent progresses via the Southwest Ridge, with camps typically established near 5,900 m and 6,500 m and a higher camp placed as conditions allow. Rather than retracing the approach, the return cuts south over the technical Gondogoro La (5,585 m), requiring fixed ropes, an early alpine start, and a steep descent into the Hushe Valley — a committed conclusion to a long Karakoram journey. This is a serious high-altitude mountaineering objective suited to climbers with prior experience on crevassed glaciers, fixed lines, and sustained elevations above 5,000 m. The 24-day climbing window allows for structured acclimatization rotations and multiple summit opportunities, yet success ultimately depends on weather, team strength, and conditions on the mountain's often corniced upper slopes. Physical endurance and disciplined decision-making are as critical as technical skill. 14 Adventure delivers the expedition through two parallel models. **Logistic Service (Alpine Style)** teams operate independently above Base Camp — setting their own schedule, rope teams, acclimatization rotation, and summit timing — while 14 Adventure runs a secure, fully equipped Base Camp underneath them: tents, meals, and a dedicated communications link. **Full Expedition (Guided)** clients work with a lead guide experienced on Chogolisa, who manages route planning, fixed-line installation on the Southwest Ridge, and summit decisions, supported by High Altitude Porters stocking Camps 1 and 2. Clients on either model without their own climbing Sherpa or High Altitude Porter can draw on 14 Adventure's network to arrange one — sourced through founder Khalil's own connections from his years as a High Altitude Porter in the early 2000s and his guiding work across Karakoram trekking and trekking-peak expeditions since 1993. Both approaches rely on established acclimatization schedules, local mountain expertise, and clear safety protocols shaped by repeated seasons on Chogolisa and the Baltoro — no schedule survives first contact with the mountain's weather, and both service models are built around that reality rather than against it.

Route & Group Stats

Trekking Days

11 days

Climbing Days

24 days

Total Distance

≈140 km

Group Size

2-8 people

Price & Departures

Licensed, Skardu-based, and trusted by international operators for guiding, permits, and logistics on the ground — book with us directly for the same team and standard, without the extra layer.

$12,500

per person

No fixed dates are published for Chogolisa Peak Expedition yet. or email info@14adventure.com to set a date. Groups of 2 or more are guaranteed to run at the price shown above; solo travelers get a custom plan and price.

A 30% deposit is due once you've applied for your Pakistani visa — plan to apply 4–5 months out, using the company license and invitation letter we provide.

Services

  • Experienced Base Camp Manager, cook, kitchen assistant, and support staff
  • Base Camp setup including mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent and shower tent
  • Generator and solar power system at Base Camp for charging and lighting
  • Base Camp furniture (tables, chairs, sleeping cots)
  • Satellite (Thuraya) phone for emergency communication at Base Camp (usage charges at client's own expense)
  • Three meals per day at Base Camp and below (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), cooked by our own chef and kitchen team
  • Twin-sharing tent accommodation throughout the approach and single tent at Base Camp
  • Hotel accommodations in Islamabad and Skardu with meals included in Skardu
  • Airport pickup and drop-off at Islamabad International Airport
  • Round-trip domestic flights (Islamabad ↔ Skardu)
  • Jeep transport throughout the trip where required
  • Low Altitude Porters (LAPs) up to Base Camp and return
  • Porter service for personal gear (40kg per person) — extra weight can be arranged for an additional charge $11 per kg
  • Free baggage storage available in Skardu during the expedition
  • Visa support package including invitation letter and all required supporting documents
  • Gondogoro La crossing permit and fees
  • High Altitude Porters (HAPs) to establish and stock Camp 1 (~5,900m) and Camp 2 (~6,500m) (Full Expedition / Guided)
  • High-altitude food and tents supplied at high camps during acclimatization rotations and the summit push (Full Expedition / Guided)
  • Fixed-line installation on the steeper sections of the Southwest Ridge, managed by the lead guide (Full Expedition / Guided)
  • Group climbing gear including ropes, ice screws, snow bars, and anchors for fixed-line installation on the route (Full Expedition / Guided)
  • Lead guide with prior Chogolisa experience or 8000m peak summiter, managing route planning and summit decisions (Full Expedition / Guided)
  • Assistance sourcing an experienced personal Nepali Sherpa or Pakistani High Altitude Porter for clients who don't already have one, arranged through our network (Full Expedition / Guided)
  • Government-appointed Liaison Officer with full board and equipment (Full Expedition / Guided)
  • Emergency oxygen at Base Camp (Full Expedition / Guided)
  • Epigas cooking fuel cylinders for personal use at high camps (personal stove/burner attachment not included, Full Expedition / Guided)
  • Chogolisa climbing permit and royalty fees (Full Expedition / Guided)

View the packing list for Chogolisa Peak Expedition (opens in a new tab, downloadable)

Led by People Who Know These Mountains

14 Adventure is run by Ibrahim Khalil, with over 30 years of experience guiding expeditions across the Karakoram, alongside a team of local Balti guides born and raised in Gilgit-Baltistan.

30+ Years GuidingLocal Balti Guide TeamBased in Skardu
Learn more about our team →

Chogolisa Peak Expedition - Detailed Itinerary